Maybe it's because of the aluminum fins that protrude from it. Grab the 8 wire connector that is unplugged from the 4x4 module. It's more of a cube, maybe 3 inches on a side. Price is around 65 bucks if you trade in your old one. I was wondering though, now that I have it out is there any way to test the darn thing? At first I think the rear brakes have siezed but nope they let loos fine. I don't see much reason to be using the Electronic Shift Control Module if you installed manual locking hubs. From what I've heard it's pretty common for the modules to get corroded from moisture over time in that location.
They work great for this sort of thing or back probing connectors. The next step will check the circuitry to the shift motor. Only the driver window has this feature. I did fix one of these problems, again as Nickd said, with bad pin connections. Next, turn the key to run and push the 4x4 switch. Again, it is more crucial here that this is not grounded.
Now, I am not positive on how the hubs work, but from looking at it maybe I'm wrong and someone can correct me , but their are two gears in the wheel bearing. Here is a snapshot of where the said module is located. I did find replacement manual hubs at www. But, with the truck in the air and the wheel off, spinning the drive shaft spins the inner gear on the hub assembly. Jan 08, 2016 I have a 2001 Ford ranger edge 4x4 with the 4. Summary: Complaints that the in-dash cd stops operating when hot. My terminology may be off.
Please fill out the following to ask a question. Connect a test lead between terminal number 5 grey wire and ground. Could it be a fuse as well? I know this is an old thread, but I would like to know how the conclusion to change this module came about. Not uncommon, since these rangers were a mix of mazda and detroit. Because of these features, and because we're pretty successful at finding any type of Ford parts, including transfer case control modules, we're confident that you will use our service again and again.
Go to the store and pick up a pack of small T-pins look in the sewing department. My left is an issue, The left locking hub is always engaged so I will work on that this coming week. In either of these instances b or c power and ground should be verified before scrapping a 4x4 module. There is a fuse in panel in the dash and one in the distribution box under the hood. Your shift motor must be hooked up for this to work.
The ignition module assemblies receive power from a fused ignition feed. The system will fail and be unresponsive if the control module does not know the exact position of the shift motor. I've forgotten to unlock my hubs for days before and other than slightly lower mpg, I noticed no difference, even at 70mph freeway speeds. I have the exact same problem on my 1999 Ford Ranger 4x4. I've read from other sources about o-rings that keep contamination out. Also, what other types of four wheel drive actuators. Refer to the following chart for the appropriate ohmmeter readings in each transfer case position.
Other than that just wish me luck. Monitor your scan tool data and ground each contact plate wire in succession looking for the scan tool data to change from open or closed. For further information on the keyless entry and computer operated locks, refer to «Section 501-14B». Does anyone know if you still need the module with a manual hub system? Next, turn the key on with the engine off. Lovely for Ford to help me out with that.
For additional information, refer to «Section 417-02». If this occurs, the switch feed to and from the module is good. Thanks for the help i appreciate it. Noted '2' in picture If so, it wasn't the hubs that were replaced. Check for a 12 volt signal there while pushing the 4x4 switch. I am real handy and have replaced or fixed just about everything else on my truck i am wondering if anyone has a clue on the part and how to repair it.