The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. Before you render it unfixable. I've had the car for four years and almost fixed everything there is to fix on the car. I thought it was going to be the battery but all of the stuff works. It ties right to it. .
Do anyone know of any solutions or what could possibly be the problem and how can i fix this. You can't check anything while it's working. I parked for breakfast, Sunday morning. Since I've had the lowjack taken off I've had problems with starting the car. No codes in history or t. For some reason with this fuse blown the car will not start when it's cold but will start fine when it's warm.
There's no notice that critical info was changed so now it's all confused. I didn't, and haven't had any more stalls. This time around, the car dies, but can be started with a battery charger. Since you said the plugs are firing then you either have a blockage that is not allowing the fuel to get to the injectors. I turned it off and started it again and it started fine.
The security light comes up on the display but does not stay on or blink. Underneath your car, located a few inches to the right of your right wheel is a set of wires and plugs. The failure recurred on numerous occasions. Wouldn't it not even start then? They would have to bypass the passlock for the remote starter to work. Another shop had car while this was happining. To say somebody tested it in the past, doesn't mean anything. Then my passenger side window fell off track.
I had been chasing this for two weeks. Thank you so much for all ur help. It sounds like there is a vacuum leak. It's been in two different shops over the past 5 weeks. They had a fuel pump and filter put on customer states car started for two weeks. This morning, I started it twice and both times, when I took the charger off, it died. To fix it: Place the key in the ignition and turn it one rotation so battery is on then leave it in the ignition for 10 minutes.
Why, however, it was two days after the battery was installed before the engine would crank, I have no clue. I don't get any cam sensor readings, but don't see a cam sensor on this thing. If it cranks good but won't start, Have a helper crank it, while you visually check for spark at the plugs. Add a site » Car was running fine, just had a maintenance update. Never had problems with it. The technician diagnosed that the lock cylinder and ignition switch needed to be replaced.
I take the air-duct loose from throttle-body, open throttle valve, spray a little in, stand back from vehicle, have helper crank it. I found that you can do the wire cut method but this will only provide you a temporary fix. It also has a leak in the passenger side floor when it rains. They it wouldn't start two days ago. It wouldn't start, just cranked. Probably has another problem other then the key. I have a meter and not afraid to use it - What I can't do is drop the tank, nor afford to take it to a shop as I'd have to pay for it to be towed, and the shop fees, neither, as mentioned above, can I afford at the moment.
I take the air-duct loose from throttle-body, open throttle valve, spray a little in, stand back from vehicle, have helper crank it. Too much misinformation for me. It will start for a few days and then it wont start for a few days. Mind you, I attempted to start it just prior to the tow truck hooking up to it. The compressor clutch has a short in it. I have replaced the ignition switch with no change to the issue. Can there anything else that it can possibly be? Sometimes the security flashes, sometimes it doesn't.
Turns out the timing chain in the engine had snapped, and it would be cheaper to buy a new engine than to try and fix it. No lights on dash at all. I got lucky because I found this site and they sell a bypass that takes passlock out of the equation forever. What size engine do you have? To get the relevant ground points just trace the negative cable starting at the battery - just follow wherever it goes. At the maintenance shop, the mechanic put the key in the switch.
Eventually the other parts of the system will fail and you will be back to square one. Those wires connected to it get melted alot on the exhause, or ground to it. You cant here a thing when you try to start it, so i wonder if theres an engine kill or something. The engine had only shut off one time. Has anybody seen this before? It turned out that the ground cable was less that a foot long and was bolted to the fender with a 10 mm bolt. Best way to find out is to just call and see.